Katia I'm really sorry to read this but I totally understand your frustration. You're spot on about the majority of money flowing into business-as-usual circular "solutions" and it is depressing. I can't imagine how demoralising it must have been to receive such a stream of rejections, especially as someone who has already achieved so much.
I'm from a solidly working class background, have zero family money providing me with a comfortable safety net and I passionately believe that sustainable fashion NEEDS voices like ours. Lived experience enables us to see consequences that might never enter the consciousness of those in more fortunate positions. The conversation around sustainability in fashion shouldn't be a privileged echo chamber, if it is, nothing will ever change.
I hope you find a healthier balance in whatever you do next and I look forward to keeping in touch in some capacity. You've definitely been an inspiration to me.
Thank you for writing this Katia & please know (for what it’s worth!) that many people appreciate your important work and will be cheering you on in your next chapter. Alas, you make depressingly valid points about funding & where it does - and does not - go.
The big picture problem, I think, is that the fashion world, at its core, is an engine of capitalism. Can it change? Do enough people want it to? I confess I am not entirely convinced these days, and find myself growing less and less interested in the business of fashion, brands, consumption etc. But for me, that has opened doors to new areas. Sending love & admiration. Clare
Thank you, Clare, for your kind words. It is true that the problems of sustainability are much broader than fashion and we are grappling with a very core issues of capitalism here. And the funny-not-so-funny thing is that people who have time and money to solve this issues are the rich. The rest of us who have to rely on income for a living will have to abide by the rules of the status quo of the capitalist system.🤷 Back when I was doing my PhD 12 years ago, I thought about these issues of Collective versus personal responsibility and action on climate change a lot. What matters to me is what can I answer to my child in 20 years when the world is crumbling and he tells me how my generation allowed for this to happen. I need to be able to, in clear consciousness, tell him that I did all that I could, given the constraints.
I admire your strength and determination we live in a very unequal world. Sustainability is ‘fashionable’ right now with the general public. Do they really care? Some do but not enough to change consumer demand. Or is it?
I have been working in retail for some years. By their own admission many customers say they don’t need anymore clothing. Many are buying less, as lifestyles have changed significantly. My mantra is only buy what you really need rather than want!
More are using charity shops which is encouraging. Particularly 20/30 year olds. I believe it’s influencing women to that pre loved is MORE fashionable than buying new.
Even companies within LVMH are struggling financially. There is hope, there is always a tipping point. Anita Roddick did that with Body Shop (I know she sold her to the devil eventually) Could that happen with clothing possibly.
Keep going, I admire what you’re doing but it is often what we are passionate about that doesn’t bring in the money. Don’t loose your focus just maybe look at it a different way Clare.
Katia I'm really sorry to read this but I totally understand your frustration. You're spot on about the majority of money flowing into business-as-usual circular "solutions" and it is depressing. I can't imagine how demoralising it must have been to receive such a stream of rejections, especially as someone who has already achieved so much.
I'm from a solidly working class background, have zero family money providing me with a comfortable safety net and I passionately believe that sustainable fashion NEEDS voices like ours. Lived experience enables us to see consequences that might never enter the consciousness of those in more fortunate positions. The conversation around sustainability in fashion shouldn't be a privileged echo chamber, if it is, nothing will ever change.
I hope you find a healthier balance in whatever you do next and I look forward to keeping in touch in some capacity. You've definitely been an inspiration to me.
Thank you, Wendy, for your support! I hope to be able to find a new balance now that the difficult decision to leave academia has been taken.
Thank you for writing this Katia & please know (for what it’s worth!) that many people appreciate your important work and will be cheering you on in your next chapter. Alas, you make depressingly valid points about funding & where it does - and does not - go.
The big picture problem, I think, is that the fashion world, at its core, is an engine of capitalism. Can it change? Do enough people want it to? I confess I am not entirely convinced these days, and find myself growing less and less interested in the business of fashion, brands, consumption etc. But for me, that has opened doors to new areas. Sending love & admiration. Clare
Thank you, Clare, for your kind words. It is true that the problems of sustainability are much broader than fashion and we are grappling with a very core issues of capitalism here. And the funny-not-so-funny thing is that people who have time and money to solve this issues are the rich. The rest of us who have to rely on income for a living will have to abide by the rules of the status quo of the capitalist system.🤷 Back when I was doing my PhD 12 years ago, I thought about these issues of Collective versus personal responsibility and action on climate change a lot. What matters to me is what can I answer to my child in 20 years when the world is crumbling and he tells me how my generation allowed for this to happen. I need to be able to, in clear consciousness, tell him that I did all that I could, given the constraints.
I think an interesting question to think about is:
Is there really such a thing as "sustainable fashion"?
I admire your strength and determination we live in a very unequal world. Sustainability is ‘fashionable’ right now with the general public. Do they really care? Some do but not enough to change consumer demand. Or is it?
I have been working in retail for some years. By their own admission many customers say they don’t need anymore clothing. Many are buying less, as lifestyles have changed significantly. My mantra is only buy what you really need rather than want!
More are using charity shops which is encouraging. Particularly 20/30 year olds. I believe it’s influencing women to that pre loved is MORE fashionable than buying new.
Even companies within LVMH are struggling financially. There is hope, there is always a tipping point. Anita Roddick did that with Body Shop (I know she sold her to the devil eventually) Could that happen with clothing possibly.
Keep going, I admire what you’re doing but it is often what we are passionate about that doesn’t bring in the money. Don’t loose your focus just maybe look at it a different way Clare.
Warm wishes
Jane